St Ju – The traditional Dordogne

A very popular destination with the French holidaymakers, due to its geographical location and range of historical attractions together with the river Dordogne, it remains an unspoilt French village that has escaped the fate of dusty dry empty streets of many other rural villages.

Known to the locals as St Ju, which is also the name of the Tabac/bar/pizza house, St Julien de Lampon is a typical French village with a difference; it has facilities! And life! It has two small general stores, one selling car fuel even on Sunday morning, a bank with a cash point, a pharmacy, butcher and of course the mandatory boulangerie (baker) who provides good quality bread which does not have to be soaked in soup before being ingested, and delicious patisseries. Old world and quaint St Ju has, to date, managed to survive the ravages of time and the exorable march of the modern superstore, the nearest large one with fuel being approx 12kilometres. Even at this distance it tempts some locals to buy just enough fuel at the local store to drive there.

There is no doubt that St Ju is centre of attraction for quite a large geographical area but Thursday morning is market day when the village really comes to life. The car park fills up with stalls offering local produce and regional specialities. In summer visitors staying at the two campsites either side of the river bridge a mere 750meters from the village, mingle with the locals buying provisions from the market stalls and the shops. The market closes at noon when a large percentage of people congregate at the St Ju Tabac to participate in the wonderful French custom of a leisurely lunch. There can be quite large numbers of people and the entrepreneurial owner of the tabac who also brings in weekend musical entertainment during the peak weeks, has struck a deal with the church opposite to use some of their hard paved area for tables and chairs. The number of languages being spoken is quite fascinating and many Brits not fluent in French can frequently be heard being helped by friendly Dutch and French customers.

However cosmopolitan the collection of people maybe, the village is truly French and could never be described as a tourist trap, with very few concessions to foreign demands of fast service and impatience, it is not unusual for a local farmer to park his tractor and trailer in front of the boulangerie while getting bread, and possibly having a chat with a friend.

Written by Alan Fowle – Owner of Property 89714 in St Julien de Lampon, France